Song for Santiago, Maya Tzutujil Group

Santiago de Atitlán is a 20 minute ride from Panajachel. When I got to Pana two days ago, I did so in a hurry, so I wasn't able to get the vibe of the place. To be completely honest, it reminds me of what Playa del Carmen was years ago, but in a bad sense. It feels extremely touristic, and though I'm not generalising, some people treat you somewhat different, more like a face with a dollar or quetzal sign. As I tried to get into the Santiago boat, I assumed they would take dollars like other boats to other places but no, they were a bit aggressive blocking the way, as if I would challenge that? But after cashing some dolla in an exchange house, I paid 25 quetzales (2 USD) for my way to Santiago.

 Riding on a tuktuk

On my way there, I spoke with amazing people, two couples, one from Quetzaltenango or Xela, and an Argentinian married to a Peruvian that met online a year ago. One look around the boat and you could find such a diversity of lives, colors and shapes; a sardine can packed with multiple cosmovisions.

I will try to get this out of my system without sounding pessimistic, but some places just don't have the same energy or flow. Maybe some things are sad, no matter how you try to see them. At arrival, kids on the dock asking you for money, or if you're looking around, they try to get you into buying something, anything.

Fountain of the Atitlán Lake

I'm from Atitlán, I respect my elders

After a steep street and a a large market, I finally arrived to the Santiago Apostle Church. It's sobriety and clean lines make this colonial building a rare beauty. I'm not so crazy about the street fair but it's a temporary thing. July 31st, was Santiago Apostol's advent and after a week, fireworks marked today as the last day of the festivities.

I bought melcochas on the street, in Mexico we call them charamuscas. There were some others delicious things around, like roscas quetzaltecas and maní or peanuts with salt, chile and freshly squeezed lemon sold in little bags.

I was in the church when I heard some music. Outside, at the back of the church, a procession with Saint Santiago was happening. I couldn't take pictures, somehow it seemed like a lack of respect amongst the people that honor these traditions. I wanted to make it to Chuitnamit but it was too late. Maybe some other time.

Back at the hotel I went through the events of the day. I guess what bothered me was walking by the streets of Santiago and looking at the infrastructure they have behind the things they sell. It's as if simulacra repeated itself all over Latin America. It's not negation like the Mexican we're fine, don't worry, and the country is falling to pieces. It's more like, this is our front store but we sometimes don't have running water in the back. And that, is uncomfortable, such talented hands, trying to sell stuff at cheaper prices to the incoming tourists.

I bought a San Simón/Judas or Maximon, which I was told it was "called on for destroying sorcery, for removing obstacles, for granting wealth, and for good luck. He is known to like alcohol and tobacco, but he is also sometimes called on for help in stopping smoking or drinking". In the image above looks pretty creepy but they carve them out of wood and has a hole on the mouth for placing a cigaret. I loved to read and watch stuff about him afterwards.

At dinner the dog from the hotel, came to greet me. He stayed by my side all the time. On the way to the room, a small, black cat walked me over to my room. He came in and jumped on the bed, then moved closer and suggested moving my computer away, as I did so, he slept on my lap for quite a while. After some time, his curious nature took him outside and left.

I had weird dreams which I will not completely disclose here but it involved a dog becoming human and people I haven't seen since my childhood or teen years. Riding on moving waters, after a whole day of them, things start making waves through your soul, transforming, maybe merging into new, mysterious things.